An unassuming store-front buried in the unpleasant tourism of Little Italy is the last place I’d expect to find such a delicious meal, but Torrisi Italian Specialties is full of surprises. We accidentally decided to try Torrisi during the Feast of San Gennaro festival, making the juxtaposition even more striking. When you enter, you are transported to a Little Italy of many decades ago: old tile floor, unassuming curtains, compact tables. There are few choices to be made. The menu is set: a few antipasti, a pasta course, an entree and a collection of dessert cookies and pastries. All of these vary each day, and the ingredients are nicely sourced, mostly from around the us with lots from New York, California, and the southwest. The night I went, of the four antipasti, two stood out: the freshly made mozzarella with garlic tomato bread and the grilled mackerel with lightly pickled eggplant. You cannot imagine the mozzarella and garlic tomato bread just from reading it. The soft warmth of the fresh cheese combined with the piquant acidity of the bread was a huge surprise. The flavor of the mackerel was rich and nuanced and nicely paired with the eggplant. The pasta course, when it arrived, looked like a classic pasta course to me—I’ve never been a pasta fan—essentially boring. However, a richness of flavor was packed in sharp spicy smoky peppers and fresh greens. For the entrees, two were offered: a grilled trout with fresh corn polenta and okra, and devil’s chicken. My dining companion and I shared the two. The devil’s chicken was succulent, coated in a tangy yogurt and with a mix of sweet and smoky chili peppers, leaving you with a slow burn. The trout, though, was our favorite. The fish was cooked perfectly, tender and moist but with a crispy exterior, and the side of fresh polenta was a revelation. Fresh polenta. Think about that. Essentially, from my internet research, this was just ground corn, just bought, and just dried. It was transporting, sweet, moist, creamy, and full of flavor. After the entree, we were given a refreshing lemon Italian ice to cleanse the palate and then a lovely and varied plate of dessert-lettes: rainbow cookies, pizelle cannolis, bourbon cream puffs, and more. A perfect finish. Some version of this lovely experience can be yours nightly for $50 per person. There are no reservations, so go down there about an hour earlier than you want to eat to put your name down, have a drink or a stroll nearby, and soon enough they’ll have a table for you.