If you want to blow your entire income tax refund in one evening of culinary indulgence, head down the street to Estiatorio Milos at 125 W. 55th St. for the best Greek cuisine in New York. Really. I was lucky enough to have my friend treat me there. I wasn’t sure what to expect, as the patrons’ reviews I’d read online ranged from one to five stars, but those can’t be taken seriously. Milos was so crowded—that is, popular—we had to wait twenty minutes even with reservations. All to make us even hungrier as we sipped a glass of Chardonnay at the bar.

Finally, the host escorted us to our table, which gave us a view of the entire restaurant and all its boisterous patrons. My friend and I started off with toasted bread, which I dipped in olive oil covered with fresh herb leaves that gave a bite to the rich olive oil. We enjoyed a white wine from the Greek island of Santorini. For water, the waiter did not bring us the ubiquitous Pellegrino. Instead, we were presented with Sourati, a sparkly, more subtle-tasting water all the way from Greece. Next came Greek salad with vine-ripe tomatoes that half-melted in my mouth, and the famous Cypriot cheese Haloumi. A second appetizer we tried was calamari, so tender, lightly fried, and served with parsley sauce, though on my next visit I’ll try the octopus appetizer, a mollusk I’ve never had.

Our entrée was loup de mer, a white fish freshly imported, which according to the menu is the most sought-after fish in all of Europe. In a word, awesome. It was accompanied by a side order of grilled vegetables composed of squash, asparagus spears, and zucchini sliced paper-thin, all of which had the power to make a vegetarian of any carnivore.

Instead of ordering one dessert each, we ordered two to share. One was yogurt topped with honey, which according to the website at www.milos.ca is Greek-style, artisan-made goat’s milk yogurt with thyme honey from Kythera. Again, scrumptious. This was not your plastic container of Dannon. We also ate the baklava, a layered phyllo pastry with almonds, honey, and cinnamon. Milos’ baklava is reputedly the best in the city. I don’t know about that, but it was one of the top two I’ve ever tasted (and I always order baklava when I go out), the other being at Pasha at West 71st and Columbus. Milos’ baklava has a variety of textures and went divinely with my espresso, which was not at all bitter, as espresso usually is. My friend ordered thick Turkish coffee, which I will try the next time I am fortunate enough to visit Estiatorio Milos, which I wish were this very evening.

Estiatorio Milos (212-245-7400) offers an à la carte menu. Appetizers: $13-$24, Entrées: $28-$40 (also fish and seafood by the pound), Desserts: $10-$15. There are also the following prix fixe options: 2005 lunch menu ($20.12 for three courses; $26.12 with a glass of wine), a business lunch menu ($35 for three courses) and a pre/post-theater menu for $45 (three courses) that is also available all evening on Sunday.