Maine’s largest city is the kind of place that exceeds one’s boldest expectations. Overlooking Casco Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, Portland feels bigger than it is. Besides the requisite lobster meals, historic lighthouses, and scenic views, Portland offers the visitor a grand selection of stylish boutiques, local beers, and delectable food, all with a distinct local zest that serves as a welcome change to the homogenized commercialism of many cities. Founded by British colonists as a trading settlement in 1632, today’s Portland has outgrown its seaport roots to become a destination for urbanites and nature lovers alike. Whether one decides to spend the day strolling through the Old Port’s cobblestone streets or hiking along one of the area’s cliffside trails, Portland is sure to delight any traveler.

Our first day in Portland began with a search for the perfect lobster roll. While planning our trip, I discovered a restaurant aptly named the Lobster Shack. Located in nearby Cape Elizabeth, the Lobster Shack occupies an unassuming, one-story wooden house that overlooks the ocean. Customers join a line outside the door for the chance to order a lobster roll, a buttery bun toasted and filled with cold, succulent lobster meat topped with a dollop of mayonnaise. Though the infamous “market price” provides a bit of sticker shock, all is forgotten after the first bite. Despite the cool fall weather and an abundance of seagulls hunting for unguarded lobster rolls, we chose to eat outdoors and enjoy the unparalleled view. While people roamed the smooth, black rocks that lined the coast below us, the deep blue water of the Atlantic stretched towards the horizon like an enormous piece of textured stained glass. We found it hard to leave.

Our stomachs full, my wife and I drove down the road to Fort Williams Park, home of the famous Portland Head Light. George Washington authorized funds for completion of the structure in 1790, and it has guarded harbor traffic ever since. To get a better view of the lighthouse, we approached it by way of a rocky trail that skirted the edge of a cliff. Its gleaming white paint and commanding position gave the light a sense of stern authority. But the lighthouse is not the park’s only attraction. Abandoned artillery casements told the story of a time when the nation’s enemies came by sea, while a dilapidated mansion stood as a hollow shell with little similarity to its former grandeur. Scuba divers splashed around in the coastal water, and children flew kites that soared in the sky to amazing heights. All of the activity gave us the impression of a perfect attraction, a place where one could in turns become immersed in history or be swept away by the awe-inspiring natural splendor.

On our second day in Portland, we decided to experience luxury travel circa 1900. The Maine Narrow-Gauge Railroad is a reconstruction of the two-foot-wide train track system that used to serve rural Maine. Besides viewing a museum that features restored rail cars and other artifacts, guests can take a train ride out and back along a 1.5-mile track bordering Casco Bay. Our elderly conductor, complete in an authentic uniform, could have been one of the railroad’s original employees and was as big an attraction as the train itself. When we reached the turnaround point, our engineer invited passengers to inspect the controls of the 60-year-old diesel-powered locomotive, all of which seemed decidedly archaic compared to the modern GPS used for guidance when stopping the train. Sitting in an open-air car despite the overcast skies and crisp sea breeze, we gained a unique perspective of the coast and old-fashioned travel on our short trip, though we were grateful for the reclining seats and in-flight television we would enjoy on the way home.

We concluded our final afternoon in Portland by visiting the Old Port, a section of town with enough attractions to keep anyone entertained. Both casual and serious shoppers can enjoy a diverse array of stores, at turns chic or cheeky, while beer lovers can join a tour at the Shipyard Brewery, a producer of classic English-style ales. Our lobster rolls from the previous day long forgotten, we discovered savory wood-fired pizzas at Flatbread, a trendy restaurant located on a pier overlooking the water, and feasted on tasty paninis at Duckfat, a small takeaway joint whose mouth-watering Belgian fries are cooked in (surprise!) duck fat. At the end of the day, we retired to our room with full stomachs and relaxed in front of a warm fire, convinced that we would soon return to Portland. The stunning views and unforgettable food guarantee it.