“What should we do?” I wondered aloud. Peering past red and white shutters through the windows of the administration building, we saw no sign of life. We tested the front door and found it unlocked. Though five cars sat in the driveway, we appeared to be the only people around. As the sun set beyond the tower in front of us, a cool breeze rustled the multitude of bare trees that dotted the grounds. Dead limbs, perhaps the calling card of a recent heavy storm, lay scattered about, leaving me to question whether or not we had found the right castle. But every detail looked as it did in the pictures, right down to the brick ruins that flanked the tower. Stepping through a dilapidated doorway to explore further, I suddenly heard voices and caught a glimmer of movement in the corner of my eye. I bounded back to the driveway, where a tall, smiling man emerged from the base of the tower with two other guests. “Are you Count Friedrich?” I asked in German. “Yes!” he replied, looking amused, and stuck out his hand as a warm greeting.

In the 21st century, meeting a member of Germany’s old nobility does not require the formalities of yesteryear. Even with intimidating titles such as the Count and Countess of Eulenburg and Hertefeld, along with a familial manor dating from at least the 1300s, the owners of our bed and breakfast remained firmly down-to-earth. Located in the village of Weeze, near the border with the Netherlands, Haus Hertefeld provides a charming sojourn for anyone wishing to experience castle life in high style. Less than an hour’s drive from Düsseldorf, Weeze furnishes a sleepy glimpse into life around the lower Rhine River. A fixture in the region for centuries, Count Friedrich’s family saw their castle burned to the ground in 1945 by German troops who wanted to prevent the Allies from using it as a command post. Soon after the war, his relatives briefly considered rebuilding their home, but more pressing concerns intervened.

In 2004, the count and countess decided to follow through on these plans and began to restore the castle, using as many original building materials as possible. Without the help of an architect, they relied on the memories of relatives and townspeople, as well as a few photographs, to reconstruct only the castle tower, the heart of the old building. The result is an impressive baroque masterpiece rising above the ruins, complete with a spacious suite, a grand guest room, an exquisite events hall, and a captivating cross vault. Three more guest chambers await visitors in the administration building, which is also where the count and his family live. An additional suite occupies two old guard houses, once separate but now joined by a luxurious addition, on the outskirts of the estate. Each space possesses a unique theme, all of which are certain to satisfy the most demanding tastes.

We chose the tower suite for our stay, persuaded by its spacious rooms and striking views. Ascending a narrow wooden staircase, we opened the door to our quarters and entered a sumptuous sitting area adorned with blue and white striped walls and a massive chandelier. Steps led to another sitting area overlooking the main room, the perfect place to enjoy a cup of tea in the company of a good book. The bedroom beckoned with an oversized bed topped with plush linens that seemed destined to guarantee a good night’s sleep. Not to be outdone by the rest of the suite, the bathroom offered a clawfoot tub, perfect for unwinding after a long day of sightseeing. Although the surroundings took us back in time, the trappings were thoroughly modern. Radiant floor heating in the bath and radiant wall heating throughout ensured that we stayed warm and toasty during the cold winter nights.

No bed and breakfast is complete without a suitable morning meal, and the count and countess personally ensure that every guest leaves satisfied. When served at ground level in the castle’s remarkable cross vault, ordinary fare becomes exceptional cuisine. Painstakingly recreated with the help of classically trained bricklayers from Poland, the cross vault is an engineering feat to be savored as much as the delicious breads, meats, and cheeses available for breakfast. Also used for special dinners, the cross vault places guests in the midst of the ruins, with intriguing views of the castle’s damaged wings. For now, Count Friedrich intends to keep the ruins as a reminder of the past, making Haus Hertefeld a type of live-in museum. Fittingly, they add to the castle’s charm, helping to fully authenticate its history, while the soaring new tower points the way to the future. With such welcoming hosts and exclusive accommodations, there is no reason to think that Haus Hertefeld’s prospects are anything but bright.

http://www.schlossruine-hertefeld.de/