Exhausted, nervous, and slightly disoriented, I arrived at my host home in Guanajuato, Mexico, under the cover of darkness. Footsteps echoed on the concrete stairs just behind the seven foot high solid steel gate; then, the rattle of a key in a lock. The opening of the gate revealed a beam of light in the form of a long-haired Mexican woman in her 60s. Incomprehensible Spanish words were exchanged between the driver and the woman, as he transferred my belongings to her. I must have had the look of fear in my eyes, because she swooped me into her arms, and offered what I could only guess, by her tone and warm laugh, were words of consolation. I felt like an orphan being dropped off by a temporary guardian to my long lost grandmother.

La señora led me into the living room and introduced herself as Carmen, to which I politely responded with the few Spanish words I knew: “Mucho gusto!” She then pointed up to a black and white portrait, “Ella es mi madre, Carmelita.” She seemed pleased when I pointed to the portrait and said, ¨Bonita!¨ with enthusiasm.

She showed me to my room and sent me to bed with a special traditional drink. It was a sweet heated juice which was surprisingly good. Unfortunately, my jetlag-induced anxiety got the best of me, and I didn´t manage to enjoy it. There were large pieces of a mysterious substance resting at the bottom. “Fruit?” I hoped.

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So began mi aventura en español!
The next day I found my way to school with a hand-drawn map thanks to Carmen. I managed to explain to the school advisor that no placement exam was necessary as mi español was virtually non-existent. I attended my first class and met my fellow students: a 30 year old from Washington D.C. studying with her boyfriend, a 70 year old retiree, who decided on a whim to escape lonely holidays in Florida, and a nineteen year old from Vermont, starting her three month Mexican sojourn for college credit.

After class, we had a 45-minute walking tour led by one of the teachers. We were shown the restaurant where we were to meet for the welcoming dinner, one of the few amenities offered to all new students. Other amenities included purified water, a rooftop where the weekly Salsa lessons took place, and free Internet, which required some patience.

My trip to Guanajuato was limited to only one week. Since then, I have experienced three more Spanish language schools in different countries: Guatemala, Ecuador, and Spain. Each school and each accommodation scenario brought with it a unique experience.

My host home in Mexico welcomed me into the family. I lunched with the extended family daily. For an exceptional dinner, my host brother played songs on his guitar while we dined over enchiladas and soda. And one afternoon, the host mother sat me down for hours showing me photographs of family and friends. In Guatemala, I stayed in a home with six other students, one of whom had a bedroom fashioned out of plywood walls in the kitchen. The family of five shared one bedroom, which included their bathroom without walls. (The students had a separate walled bathroom with a lock-able door.) In Ecuador, I had a room with cable television in a rather posh building, and luxury of luxuries: my own private bathroom! In Spain, I had no heating in an unseasonably cold winter, and couldn’t help but notice that the living room was also the host mother’s bedroom.

Alternative accommodation is available: shared student apartments, dorm rooms on campus, and/or hotels. Students might choose more private accommodation if they have certain dietary restrictions. Being a vegetarian, I found that host families tried their best to accommodate, but the definition of vegetarian seems to vary from person to person. (Eg. Soups can be made with beef/chicken stock, even rice might be steamed with a chicken carcass in the center, salads might be served with fish and eggs, etc.)
Class schedules are incredibly flexible. Morning and/or afternoon classes are available; group and/or private. Students are able to begin courses virtually every Monday of the year (holidays excluded). From my experience, students can begin midweek as well, especially if private lessons are chosen. At the end of the course, most schools present students with a certificate of completion. Students are expected to give a brief speech upon acceptance in an informal gathering. My first experience imparted only a “Gracias a’ todos!” which I repeated betwixt a mix of giggles if only to add some length to my embarrassingly short speech.

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The schools organize group activities of which students can opt in or out. The school in Quito, Ecuador was especially good at organizing activities in which students would practice their Spanish, learn new cultural aspects, and interact with locals and each other. During my stay, I joined a tour of the Equator, enjoyed a visit to a teacher’s home to make traditional juices, and made empanadas in the school’s kitchen alongside students and teachers.

Student ages, backgrounds, and motivations vary widely. Ages range from 18-70! Social groups didn’t break along age lines so much as mutual interests. Guatemala had a large number of Dutch students (all of those with whom I spoke were motivated by volunteer work in the region). In Ecuador, I met a doctor from England taking a break from his medical practice and “trying to get back to why [he] went into medicine in the first place;” a Chinese woman whose work with the World Bank required that she learn Spanish; and a 25 year old South African taking a three month tour in South America, each month studying at a different school. Not surprisingly, Spain had more European students compared to Latin America. A 31 year old French science researcher shared that his motivation was his simple appreciation of Spanish culture. A Dutch retiree revealed to the class that he wished to gain enough skill to read Spain’s national newspaper, El País. My fellow student and new German friend in his mid-twenties, was learning Spanish to complete his language requirement at his home institution.

Most students find schools online and register with them directly. In Antigua, Guatemala, Spanish language schools seem to be as prevalent as bodegas are in NYC. One can sign up with one school one day, and quickly change to another the next. All of my studies have been registered through a middle-man of sorts: donquijote.org. Don Quijote will provide a range of services. Besides organizing registration with the school, the organization can set up accommodation, travel options, and even provide taxi service to and from the airport. It is helpful to note that all services are likely cheaper if one finds such services independently.

One of the most enjoyable facets of language-learning vacations is not just what one learns about other places, but what one learns about one’s own home. With each return home to Nueva York, I find more of the Spanish-language community revealed to me. Previously, Spanish language subway signs would fade into the background; Spanish language conversation by passers-by would not even register in my ears. Now my eyes are open and my ears are perked! The foundations formed abroad are built upon once back home. One day, I’ll be able to revisit Carmen, and say much more to her than just: “Mucho gusto.” Perhaps, I’ll even be able to ask her what the mysterious substance was in that special drink!